Tracking Twain into a Volcano

It’s lunchtime at Volcano House inside Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Sitting in a rocking chair, I gaze out a wall of plate glass windows at Halema`uma`u. Two miles across the rocky landscape, lava erupts from a hole in the ground 4,000-feet above sea level. I have to remind myself of that. That below me an…

Report from Ranger Rogers: St. Pat and Scat

St. Patrick must have been a friendly guy. I suppose all the raucous celebration of him is testament to that. Because his day—Tuesday, March 17th—seemed to put everybody in a good mood at Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge last week. As if the place itself (gorgeous) and the wildlife (cool) living there isn’t enough to…

Report from Ranger Rogers: From Blue to Brown

I recently traded blue for brown. And what a difference it has made. For the past eight-ish years, I’ve volunteered at Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, wearing a blue t-shirt with just about any old pair of shorts or skorts or capris–in khaki, oatmeal, gunmetal, or green. I’d rove the northernmost point of the main…

Mark Twain Would Have Loved the Wilderness Act at First Glance

It’s appropriate that I’m in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the 50th anniversary of the Wilderness Act. Not that I planned it, which makes the whole thing even better. I’m here researching and writing about Mark Twain’s visit to Hawaii in 1866. He made the long horseback journey to Kilauea Volcano during that visit. This…