One Albatross to Another: “Same time next year.”

Laysan albatrosses don’t roam the wide seas of the Pacific Ocean in flocks. They don’t even forage for flying fish and squid with their mates. What it comes down to is Laysan albatrosses travel through their watery world solo. That’s why they’re known as synchronous nesters. I counted 28 Laysan albatrosses on my survey this…

In Which Mark Twain’s Unpublished Manuscripts Inspire Me.

I’m sitting in a bed-sized window seat overlooking Sycamore Canyon in Big Sur, California, in a friend’s barn. Through an octagon-shaped window, I can see the famous Big Sur coastline, as well as, the occasional deer that roams by. In addition to deer, crows and vultures catch my eye. Sometimes, it’s the neighbor dog—a shih tzu…

How Cool Is That: Laysan Albatrosses Return.

A Laysan albatross living on the remains of an island 1,200 miles northwest of Honolulu is the oldest-known bird living in the wild. Her name is Wisdom, and she is 63 years old. Wisdom was first banded in 1956 as an adult when she was estimated to be five years old. But she could just…

Don’t Count Hurricane Ana Out Yet.

The seven words people on Kauai fear the most: The hurricane is going south of Hawaii. When I got off a whale research boat on Friday, my phone pinged and chirped and downloaded a few dozen emails in an effort to sync itself with my land-based world: News about a hospitalized uncle, a pregnant friend who…

September in the Rear View.

September’s come and gone. How did that happen? I blame it on Mark Twain. My head was down all month, re-living his escapades in Hawaii. I poured through his 25 dispatches for the Sacramento Union. I dug into his notebooks and letters. I scoured a gem of a book–Mark Twain and Hawaii–by Walter Francis Frear….